The North section of the Preseli Hills National Park, consisting of deep wooded valleys, high rolling heatherclad moorland and craggy summits, has a stark beauty all of its own.

This little-visited region bounds the coastal plateau and you are never far from the sea. Birds of prey haunt the skies, while herds of Welsh Mountain ponies and sheep freely graze the open moorland.

This is criss-crossed by prehistoric tracks, an area I enjoy on foot or horseback, but a labyrinth of little roads can take even the most sedentary of families to the hillforts and fabulous viewpoints. Bikes and ponies are available for day hire.