Freshwater West Beach

Set on the south west coast of Pembrokeshire near to Angle and the firing range at Castlemartin is the wonderful wide bay of Freshwater West Beach. The stunning white sands here are backed by a burrow of beautiful sand dunes, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and was once a favourite for smugglers.

This exposed beach attracts surfers from all over the globe with its impressive Atlantic swells and large breaking waves. Being such a remarkable surf spot, it’s no wonder that the Welsh National Surfing Championships call Freshwater West home.

Around 1 km in length, this beach is home to a restored Seaweed Hut; a thatched shelter once used to dry out seaweed in the laverbread making process, and even a grave honouring everyone’s favourite house-elf Dobby. Swimmers must be wary bathing here due to strong rip currents, and barbecues are strictly forbidden due to the protected status of the dunes.

Activities

To say that Freshwater West, or Freshwest as we locals prefer to call it, is a great beach for surfing is somewhat of an understatement. Skilled surfers, national champions and even training Olympians practise riding the waves here as conditions are often top-notch.

That being said, those new to the sport or still gaining experience are recommended to aim for other Pembrokeshire surfing spots as the strong rips can result if those with little experience catching themselves in times of distress here. Swimmers must also be vigilant when bathing in the shores at Freshwater West. A mixture of hazardous quicksand and strong undertows can be dangerous to the unsuspecting sea swimmer.

The beach is disguised at high tide with the water-consuming all of the bay, so aim for low tide if you’re hoping for a day of sand-based activities. Take advantage of the kilometre space of sand and bring along a bagful of beach games to keep you occupied. Practise your sandcastle building, teach the little ones how to play hopscotch with a hand-drawn grid carved into the sand or challenge your friends to a game of beach volleyball.

The lack of shelter at Freshwater West enables suitable winds for kiting. Educate your children on how to fly their first kite, bring along your land board for an afternoon of kiteboarding across the sand or if you’re a regular to the sport, why not test out your power kiting skills with an hour or two of kitesurfing?

If you’re planning a wildlife holiday in Wales, this section of the coast should definitely be on your to-do list. You’ll find Atlantic Grey Seals here, September is a time when most come to shore looking for quiet coves and peaceful inlets to look after their newborn pups. Birdlife is teeming here, you may sight choughs, lapwings and waders to name but a few. Explorers will adore delving into the rockpools towards the southern end of the beach whilst fishermen can enjoy onshore fishing. Fish caught frequently in the area include dogfish, bass and rays.

Film buffs and Potterheads can be found scouring the shoreline for Dobby’s grave. The shell house seen in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows is no longer here to be seen, it was knocked down post-filming but fans have built their own resting place in honour of the beloved character. If you’re lucky, you’ll stumble upon the collection of rocks commemorated with declarations of love and celebration of the fictional creature.

You may also recognise Freshwater West Beach from two other recent films, Robin Hood starring Russell Crowe (2019) and The Finest starring Sam Claflin (2016). Walk the shore and re-enact these famous beach film scenes or simply follow in the footsteps of these well-known faces from the silver screen.

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Events

In regards to surf champions, travel to this beach as an onlooker in April for the Welsh National Surf Championships. A long-standing event at this location, this surf competition draws in the very best surfers from the locality and the rest of the county to compete for the coveted first place title. This annual contest has taken place here since 1965 and now has the backing of surf apparel giants like Billabong. In recent years, the competition welcomes four categories of participant; male, female and the same again in a Junior category. Winners can now go on to compete in the European Championships and in 2016, it was announced that winners would qualify for the 2020 Olympics.

When the conditions are right the surf can be epic

Another great event which takes place here is the Festival of the Sea. A much-newer addition to the Pembrokeshire calendar, this weekend-long celebration takes place in May celebrating all things sea-related. Expect fresh seafood, shopping stalls, live music and beach activities like yoga and circuits. Some parts of this event are run from the local National Trust site at Gupton Farm.

Facilities

Freshwater Beach is a particularly rural beach as it is not backed by a scenic coastal village like most of the beaches in Pembrokeshire. There are a couple of small car parking areas along this stretch, all free of charge, and you may find some roadside parking, however, be careful not to block a passing place. Some of these country roads can be narrow in parts and it is important not to block the passing places.

The main car park lies nearer the south end of the beach. Here you will find a public toilet block and Café Mor. Undeniably one of Pembrokeshire most unique eateries, this street food vendor boards inside a renovated fishing boat and offers some of the best seafood dishes around. Stop off here for a fresh lobster roll, sample their exclusive mermaid confetti or try out their kelpchup, a ketchup made from kelp seaweed. These guys are the people who bring you Barti Ddi Rum (also made with Pembrokeshire seaweed and a must-try!) and the famous Ship’s Biscuits. Café Mor is seasonal, open only between Easter and September.

The RNLI patrol Freshwater West Beach between late June and early September allowing a safe visit for all.

Outer Reef Surf School have one of their three bases here, the other two being situated at Newgale Beach and Manorbier Beach. Through Outer Reef, you can book a surf lesson or a paddleboarding session at this incredible Pembrokeshire beach. You can also take your instructor and rescue courses.

Local Top Tips

Freshwater West Beach is a wide sandy beach so understandably crowds gather here on warm sunny days during the holidays. Thus parking can be somewhat tricky as it is limited in comparison to the large numbers who wish to visit. Try getting the Coastal Cruiser bus between Angle, Pembroke and Bosherston or travel by two wheels and cycle here.

Be careful when exploring the sandy dunes backing this beach. Over time, certain areas have been affected by erosion from stormy weather making them unstable.

Access

There are several access points onto the beach, most of which are across the sand dunes. There is a a set of steps plus a sloping sand path opposite the main car park where the toilet block is allowing access to the beach. Unfortunately though as the slope is sandy rather than level concrete, access for wheelchairs and prams is not the easiest.

Is Freshwater West Beach Dog Friendly?

Yes, Freshwater West Beach remains dog friendly all year long making it an ideal choice for a morning stroll with your pooch or a game of catch on a sunny day.

Award-Winning

Over the years, Freshwater West has racked up a number of awards. It has been presented with the Blue Flag Award for its well-maintained shoreline and great facilities, and is on the Marine Conservation Society’s list of recommended beaches. It is also no stranger to winning titles such as “Most Stunning Beach” as voted by the readers of Countryfile Magazine (2020). 

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