A Day Trip to Caldey Island near Tenby
Enjoy a cliff-walk, hours at the sandy beach and more at this dog friendly attraction
To describe the allure of Caldey Island near Tenby is a tough task, but as soon as you set foot on this idyllic isle, you’ll instantly understand the adoration it manages to cast over those who visit.
If you ask anyone for recommendations on things to do during a stay in Tenby or indeed, Pembrokeshire; one of the first activities suggested is often to spend a day out at Caldey Island. And it’s no wonder.
Being a Pembrokeshire native, I had visited Caldey for the first time around age 11 and so this marked my first return to the island in almost twenty years. Hindsight they say is a beautiful thing but in this case, not so much - there is a strong sense of regret for not returning sooner. This incredibly enjoyable day out stands practically on my doorstep and I’m at a loss as to why this isn’t a regular date in my diary.
With warm sunshine on the forecast for the foreseeable, I took my chance to plan a visit to Caldey Island in mid-May 2023 and what an impeccable decision. The sun shone gloriously over our corner of West Wales on my chosen Wednesday morning as I drove down to the seaside town of Tenby, where the boats to Caldey depart from.
Priory Bay Beach
Buying Tickets for Caldey Island Boat Trips
Being term time, there were plenty of spaces in the multi-storey car park (levels 1 and above for long stay) and I was met with a low hum of activity along the cobbled streets on my stroll down to the harbour where I was to buy my tickets. Whilst tickets cannot be purchased in advance for the crossing to the island, I was in no panic as the wooden kiosk opens at 10am allowing for a morning wander soaking up views of North Beach and the pretty boats in the harbour.
I timed it well as the friendly gent in the booth took my card payment in return for a tiny admission ticket and told me to head straight onto Castle Beach where I was to board the boat imminently as it was low tide. If it had been a high tide, I would have had to board from the harbour. I picked up a leaflet from the booth as the characterful chap cracked a joke and explained he’d been working the kiosk for some forty years - as they say, when you do a job you love, you won’t work a day in your life.
The ticket booth stands in the centre of Tenby Harbour
The Boat Trip to Caldey Island
Followed by a tidy succession of holidaymakers, I made my way through a stone archway (remains of the old castle walls that enveloped the town) and made my way down the slipway onto the soft sand of Castle Beach. I headed straight for the tractor towing a transportable pontoon where another friendly local ripped a notch in my tiny ticket before I stepped onto the boat. Whilst it’s not a large ferry, it is a traditional vessel rather than a jet boat so you can expect a pleasant journey across with plenty of seating plus the skipper is there to provide a supporting hand as you step into the vessel.
With the pastel townhouses and St Catherine’s Fort as a backdrop, the boat sailed the three-mile cruise (approx. twenty minutes) across the waters - completely flat with only a warm breeze - as many passengers took an opportunity to snap a memento on their camera phones. Me included!
Tenby Harbour pictured from the ferry
Upon reaching Caldey Island, you’ll notice golden sands to your left which is the only accessible beach on the island. Priory Bay Beach is somewhat rocky on the western side but opens up to a wide expanse of soft sand underfoot, ideal for a spot of sunbathing. Backed by dunes, these glassy waters are favoured amongst bathers whilst children and dogs often prefer digging holes and ball games. Note - the island welcomes dogs but they must remain on a close lead at all times.
Due to the low tide, we were instructed to alight the boat and step onto a tall sturdy trailer with seating which was then driven to the concrete landing stage by an impressive tractor with sprocket wheels. The flat-level pathway continued around the beach passed by two signs noting the time of the last departure boats back to the mainland and two handy wheelchairs, free for those who need them to use when exploring the island.
The tractor with sprocket wheels and trailer
Exploring Caldey Island, Tenby
A gentle uphill concrete trail leads into the village of Caldey, passing by a slipway to the beach and a wooded staircase to the Calvary and Watchtower before venturing into a woodland area known for sightings of red squirrels. Whilst I didn’t manage to spot any during my excursion, it was remarkable quite how peaceful the island was here. There was an orchestra of birdsong and buzzing insects with a low bustle of leaves and flowers flowing in the wind; the perfect kind of white noise.
As the wooded canopy of the trees parted, I stepped out into brilliant sunshine and found myself right in the heart of that picture-postcard view of Caldey Island that you’ll be familiar with if you’ve ever seen photos of the island. Straight ahead was the prominent Abbey and Abbey Church with their iconic red roof tiles; the Post Office and Gallery standing below. To my right was the Duck Pond and Gallery, with the Shop nestled between. On my left, was a wide-open green with the cafe perched just behind in the shade on the edge of the woodland where I later enjoyed a cooling ice cream cone before boarding the boat home.
Caldey Island Post Office
I, on a girls' day out with my mum and my nan, decided to make use of one of the many picnic benches sprinkled across the lawn and settled down for a bite to eat from our homemade picnic. Looking around, there was an overwhelming sense of peace and positivity. Even I, knowing I wasn’t too far from home, felt like I was on holiday.
After a quick visit to the public toilets, we consulted the map in a discussion of which way to venture first when some friendly passers-by overheard and recommended that we head to one of the chapels where a service had just started. Decision made.
Following this stranger’s advice, we strode off in search of the service (and perhaps a monk or two) but naturally, never made it as we were too curious along the way. We followed a path to the left of the Post Office, taking us past the Video Hall where we had intended to return but ran out of time. Our route took us past the beautiful St David's Church with its colourful stained glass windows, pretty trellis shrubbery and a lush green lawned graveyard.
St David's Church
Continuing along the trail, we reached the Abbey Church where multiple services take place on weekdays and Sundays. As a mark of respect, this Church is a silent zone with no phones allowed and though you can see inside the Church via the viewing balcony above, you are not permitted inside. From there, I passed by the Abbey (access forbidden) and down a picturesque stone staircase back down to the village.
Next on our to-do list was to pay a visit to the Lighthouse; the landmark I remembered best from my previous visit likely due to the group photos taken below the torchlight. The concrete pathway from the landing stage continues right the way up to the lighthouse providing easy access for those in wheelchairs and/or those with pushchairs, there are various stopping points with benches too.
The island's Lighthouse
We took a detour on our journey to the Lighthouse steering right to sightsee the ruins of the old abbey which lies next to some farm buildings. Here you will also discover St Illtyd’s Church with the well-known leaning spire (1 metre from perpendicular!) and inside, an Ogham stone inscribed with ancient script that was allegedly once used as a windowsill and a garden seat. The stained glass window here dates back to the 1920s and depicts St Illtud, the founder of a nearby 6th-century monastery, as a young knight with King Arthur. Make sure to check out the wall carvings in the chancel to the rear with its barrel-vaulted ceiling and pebblestone floor.
Stained glass window at St Illtyd's Church
Eventually, we reached the Lighthouse where we stopped for a water break and noticed a rather large dark cloud overhead, though the temperature seemed not to have dropped a degree. After snapping a few pics of the land beacon here, we embarked on the Cliff Path walk along the coast of the isle where we passed by delightful scenes of pink thrift and sailing cruises making their way around Caldey. Instead of continuing on for the lengthened West Cliffs Walk at 1.9 miles, we decided to loop back to St Illtyd’s Church and up to the Lighthouse again via the Lighthouse Walk at 1.4 miles - note, there is a steep grass section!
From there, we trundled back downhill to return to the main village green at Caldey where we browsed the Museum within the Post Office; the walls here are adorned with the fascinating history of the island so do carve out time in your day to spend a little time here. It is also where you can purchase postcards and stamps, and then pop them in the letterbox to make their way home to your loved ones.
After a browse around the Gift Shop for a bar of Caldey Island chocolate (a must!!) and a pitstop for an ice cream from the Cafe, it was time for us to make our way back down to Priory Bay Beach ready to await the last ferry of the day. We strolled slowly downhill, snapping pictures of snowdrops and bluebells on our way before a brief visit to the soft white sands of the beach. If you’re ever holidaying in Tenby and fancy a change of scenery, a trip across for a day at this beach is highly recommended.
St Illtyd's Church
Getting the Boat back to Tenby
Finally, we boarded the boat and made our way back to Tenby. The atmosphere on that journey was one of pure joy and elation, every passenger looked delighted with the day they had experienced on this charming island - as was I.
As a beautiful bookend to our day out at Caldey, our sea journey took us right the way past Castle Beach towards North Beach and straight into Tenby’s picturesque harbour. Stepping off the vessel onto the stone steps of Tenby Harbour, I basked in the warm sunshine as I stood centre of the picture we all know so well.
How a land that measures only 1.5 miles in length and 1 mile in width can be quite so magical is a mystery, but it is certainly a gem on the Welsh coast, that’s for sure.
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