Solva To Newgale

The weather was unseasonably warm for a day in March and it felt very much like a summer's day at my starting point on the picturesque harbourside of Solva, with kayakers and swimmers braving the water and doing their best to pretend it was August.

The tide was in and the water was crystal clear so I couldn't really disagree with their enthusiasm until I remembered that the water was probably 8C. Not for me thank you, I'll stick to dry land today.

This leg of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path starts with a short, sharp climb up to the ridgeline of the valley that overlooks the harbour below. This walk rewards you with some pretty stunning views straight off the start line and it's the panoramic views of Solva, the coast, and the sheltered beach of Gwadn on the other side of the ridgeline that'll take your breath away here - if the short climb hasn't already.

This ridgeline is covered in bright yellow gorse which gives off its summery coconut-like scent making it even harder to believe it was still March.

Following the path along the short ridge brings you to an ancient promontory settlement enclosure where it's easy to appreciate the naturally fortified position with the sea all around you. There are a number of these along the Pembrokeshire coast, with many still retaining their defensive embankments after thousands of years.

A short downhill section into the parallel valley now brings you down onto the hidden pebble-lined beach of Gwadn. Even though it was still pretty early in the day, there were plenty of people making the most of the sun here with a few people fishing and some kayakers coming ashore after a short paddle from launching at the harbour.

For me, it was now another climb from sea level up onto the headland on the other side of the beach. Although the path cuts the actual end of the headland out, it's worth the short detour out to the end and back to make the most of the view back over the beach.

The next section of the route takes you through some fields along a steep cliffside. The back includes the St Davids Peninsula and Garn Llidi, although it was hazy, I could still make them out in the distance. The route from here was largely flat until it was time to descend down to sea level at the tiny cove at Porthmynawyd. 

This quiet little pebble beach (when the tide is in) was a mixed blessing. Although it was a peaceful spot for a quick snack and rest, I could see the climb out of the cove looming above me. Regardless, it was an incredibly peaceful rest stop and I had the beach, with its crystal clear water, all to myself.

When the tide is out, there's also a sandy stretch to the beach and it's a great choice if you like your beaches quiet and generally to yourself as I do. With the temperature rising and the sea an inviting turquoise, it felt a bit like being in the Mediterranean - even if it was still March.

Now it was time to climb back out of the valley and although it was a bit of a slog, it was over and done with soon enough and I could now see Newgale in the distance. A relatively flat stretch of the path then leads to a short descent and climb combo just to keep you on your toes and you get ready to drop down into Cwm-bach, yet another well-hidden beach that is often quiet even during summer. This is a great spot for a bit of rock pooling at low tide.

Now for the final climb of the day and it's a bit of a steep one. Once over and done with though you get to enjoy a great view of Newgale Beach and the impressive expanse of golden sand below. There were plenty of paddleboarders and surfers enjoying themselves as I descended down into Newgale and I couldn't blame them, the weather really was perfect for it.

I walked past the Duke Of Edinburgh and envied the people at the packed tables with their cold drinks and delicious smelling food, but I had a finish point at the car park further on so an ice cream from the ice cream van would have to do as my reward for finishing.