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Trefin to Whitesands

Coastal Cottages Walk All Over Cancer

My next section to walk was Trefin to Whitesands Beach, this time accompanied by my lurcher Alfi.

We started off walking out of the village on the road past Aberferlin, soon it started to climb and we cut onto the path properly, crossing the fields and going through the standing stones to hug the edge of the coast. The views looking back to Aberferlin were stunning and you could spot Strumble Head in the distance and the flash of the lighthouse.

It was a bright if cold, sunny day with a biting wind which was exhilarating. The whole route was accompanied by the sound of the roaring wind and waves crashing on the cliffs below, white waves rolling out to sea with a bright blue sky and skidding clouds. The strength of the wind blowing you inland made it difficult in places to stay upright on the narrow path. There were signs of spring everywhere with primroses, violets, hawthorn and gorse all starting to come out along the way.

The Wales Coast Path in Pembrokeshire

We were soon onto Porthgain and could see the white stone turrets marking the headlands to guide sailors into this picturesque harbour and the ruins of the works. We crossed the harbour and climbed up the steps to the other side where there were a few people around, but it was quiet compared to how it is later in the season.

After Porthgain, we spotted a beautiful secluded beach that we just had to investigate. Down a series of metal steps, Traeth LLyfn is a stunning sandy cove seldom visited. Further on, we came across the remains of a quarry and derelict buildings on the cliff edge, bright red against the stunning blue sea seeming out of place. Then it was on down and round to the Blue Lagoon with its turquoise still waters and steep sides popular in the summer with cliff jumpers, but there was no one brave enough to take to the water today. Then we followed the course down and across the black sand beach of Abereiddy; in summer, there is a beachside van where you can buy coffee and snacks but being out of season, we had to rely on our supplies today.

Traeth Llyfn Beach in Pembrokeshire

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path continues up the road away from the beach past Melin Aberiddy to join the clifftop once more and start the long 6-mile trek to Whitesands.  The wind was wild along this section, sending sea foam floating past us, but we sighted our first swallow this year - another sure sign that spring is on its way. The path undulated up and down, hugging the coastline around rugged inlets, diving up and down to be closer to the water, perilously close to the edge. The path here is stony and uneven with some steep sections that are more of a scramble, but the views are panoramic with the sea on one side and the rugged rocks rising inland.

We hiked past Carn Penberi and Carn Perfedd and Lleithyr, with Carn Llidi tantalisingly close. As you reach the St Davids headland, it becomes a unique and almost lunar landscape; barren and rocky with paths meandering through the close-cropped heather. It can obviously be boggy in places at times but it was fine for us after our recent spell of dry weather.

The Coast Path in Wales

Finally, we spotted a dazzling sight of water glistening in the sunshine with Skomer Island and Whitesands Beach in view - stunning. We followed the path down and round and finally onto the beach, the tide was out so the sand was vast and glistening in the sunlight. After 12 miles, it was a relief to reach the beach but the views had been breathtaking the whole way and well worth it.

Breathtaking views were in sight around every corner for Rona's hike along this northwesterly stretch.
Distance / Time
Difficulty / Ascent
Leisurely
Author
Rona Muscutt
Author:
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