St Dogmaels to Newport Sands

We had picked to do the first section of the Coastal Path from St Dogmaels to Newport Sands, 15 miles known as the most arduous and perhaps the most remote section of the trail. We were slightly daunted by this challenge and I had roped in my sister-in-law Trina to accompany me.

The starting point can be found in St Dogmaels on the bank of the River Teifi near the slipway and popular Ferry Inn, a well-frequented waterside pub serving excellent food and a favourite stop when completing the path in the opposite direction, but we were far too early to sample its wares. The weather was clear and sunny, if chilly and windy when we began.

The start lulls you into a false sense of security as it was flat following the road running adjacent to this pretty waterway with lovely riverside views, past the Webley Inn with its super garden overlooking the water towards Poppit Sands. The footpath then cut into the sand dunes until we reached the beach with the lifeboat station and seasonal cafe being our last chance for a toilet break with 14 miles in front of us. There is no place to refuel after this until Newport so we made sure we were well stocked with water.

This first section follows the narrow lane up towards Caemes Head, we caught stunning views over the hedgerows out to Poppit Sands and Cardigan Bay with Cardigan Island looming across the water. The climb was steep but the going good, then the footpath left the road and began in earnest, heading up and past the old coastal lookout. This area is a nature reserve so birdlife is varied but being no experts, we could not identify them all. In autumn seal pups can often be seen and heard below.

The gusting winds made the sea look spectacular with lots of rolling waves breaking onto the cliffs, and being clear you could see for miles. We had a long way to go so we tried to keep the pace up as the path climbed and descended and climbed again, leaving Caemes head behind and onto Pwllygranat. The geology, the rock formations and the colours were amazing with folds and faults as I struggled to remember my O’level geology. Streams rushed down gullies and broke to cascade out of the rocks and into the sea.

Finally we reached Ceibwr Bay, descending down 400ft to this pretty cove with Nant Cweiber bubbling down the valley and out to sea. Crossing over the bridge, we saw our first 2 people since leaving Poppit Sands. This really is a stunningly beautiful and wild part of the Coastal Path. We paused to watch the water boil up through Pwll y Wrach or Witches Cauldron; a narrow passageway formed by the collapse of a cave through which the sea rushes in and out.

There were many amazing spots to stop and admire the view and catch your breath but we couldn’t afford time for a picnic with the weather closing in we kept going munching as we went. The next 6 miles seemed endless, we could see Caemes head behind us and how far we had come but also Newport Head in front of us, appearing closer all the time but never seeming to be around that next corner. Following the rises and falls of the path, the track here was rough and uneven, steep in places and close to the edge, the strong winds took your breath away as you rounded a corner.

The weather now started to turn with a few spit-spots on the wind until it became full-on horizontal rain, so all we could do was pull our hats down, bow our heads and battle on keeping a close eye on our feet. This section was really remote and we were accompanied only by the wheeling choughs with their wild cries and distinctive red beaks, with only wild ponies and sheep. We passed one brave walker heading towards St Dogmaels, who assured us it was a fairly short and easy trek to Newport from where we were - I think he was just trying to encourage us!

The path here is challenging with steep rough sections, uneven steps and several scrambles yet Newport Head remained tantalising in the distance. Finally, we rounded the headland and spied the beach, at last! The descent down was steep and slippery, made worse by the rain. We were now thoroughly drenched and cold but triumphantly we made it to Newport Sands and as if to mark our success, the rain stopped and the sun peeped out to highlight the beauty of Newport Sands and the pretty town itself across the estuary. What a challenge but well worth the effort; the views had been panoramic the whole way and we celebrated by cracking open a miniature bottle of Port between us - purely medicinal of course to keep the chills away.