Cwm Yr Eglwys Beach is a sandy shingle cove positioned on the North Pembrokeshire coast, somewhat secluded from the main road between Fishguard and Newport. It may be lesser known than larger seaside resorts such as Tenby and Newgale, but it holds a fond place in many hearts and rightly so.
The beach at Cwm Yr Eglwys is east-facing and is situated on one side of Dinas Island which is, in fact, not an island but a headland separated from the mainland by only a stream. On the western side of Dinas Island, lying almost parallel to Cwm Yr Eglwys, is the serene haven of Pwllgwaelod.
This sheltered beach offers arguably one of the most iconic landscapes in Pembrokeshire, as the beach is backed by a churchyard where only one end wall of a 12th Century church remains. During the great storm of 1859, the St Brynach’s Church at Cwm Yr Eglwys was ravaged by the tumultuous seas and resulted in all bar one wall being claimed by the sea.
Cwm Yr Eglwys is home to a popular local boat club so you will often find residents from the area out on the water in their boats. The cove here is small so expect to see rowing boats, smaller fuel-powered boats and sailing boats. Being east-facing and somewhat sheltered from the incoming tide off the Irish sea, the preferred watersports of choice here is mainly kayaking as the picturesque inlet makes for a wonderfully beautiful backdrop.
Bathers love this location for a spot of sea swimming. Swim just out of the shore and you’ll discover a secret sandy bay to the right of the village, accessible only at low tide when the outgoing water reveals a section of sand ideal for sunbathing. Concealed from view from the main beach, this second beach is a pretty and private go-to.
Children and wildlife lovers adore this beach for it is a wonderland of sea life. Discover a wealth of spider crabs in the shore here with only a crab line or a bucket, or bring along your snorkel and paddle through the waters spotting the vibrant fish in their own habitats. Explore the rocky formations at the edges of this inlet to find a paradise of rock pools and water, home to seaweed, starfish, anemones and more.
At high tide, you can stand on the high stone sea wall and cast your fishing rod into the water for an evening of tranquil sea fishing or when the tide is lower, wade into the waters. Wherever you position yourself, you are likely to catch dogfish, plaice, pollock and whiting to name a few.
As with all of the beaches in Pembrokeshire, you can also access the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Cwm Yr Eglwys. Follow the path west to take a route around Dinas Island towards Pwllgwaelod and on to Fishguard, or venture east taking you past Aberfforest Beach and onto Newport where you can meet the River Nevern.
The churchyard stands at an elevated position to the beach and along this grassy area, you will find several wooden benches. Take a seat here to watch the sunrise or sunset, or simply watch the world go by and let yourself be hypnotised by the constant movement of the waves.
During the first two weeks of August each year, the boat club here hosts an annual Cwm Yr Eglwys Regatta celebrating their strong boating community. This event creates a buzz of energy in this idyllic coastal village each year with a jam-packed timetable of daily events including sailing and rowing competitions, long-distance swimming races and sandcastle-building contents. There really is something to suit everyone with children’s races, rafting battles and sea fishing events too. One of the highlights of the Cwm Yr Eglwys Regatta is the community-wide beach barbecue get-together.
Upon entering this village, you are met with a public car park, small in size as to be expected in this little hamlet. Free during the low season, this area of parking is manned during the summer months requiring a charge in return for parking. Between the car park and the churchyard which backs Cwm Yr Eglwys Beach, you will find a boat park housing all manner of small boats when they are not in use on the water.
Within this boat park, in eyesight from the car park, you will spot a small wooden hut. In the summer months, this opens up to reveal a small refreshments shop selling cold and hot drinks, plus ice creams – just what you need on a warm, sunny day. Follow a lane between the boat park and churchyard to access the free public toilet block.
For a wider range of facilities, you will have to travel a little further afield. From the back of the car park, you can follow a wheelchair friendly walk across the width of Dinas Island to reach the local pub at Pwllgwaelod. The Old Sailors is an fantastic beachside restaurant just a stone’s throw from Pwllgwaelod Beach and is a popular place to enjoy fresh seafood and watch the sunset.
At Dinas, approximately a five-minute drive from Cwm Yr Eglwys, you will find further amenities. Situated on the main roadside is Kiel House minimarket offering a good range of groceries including freshly made local Welsh cakes (highly recommended!), and Dinas Cross Service Station. You will also find some local eateries here. The Ship Aground is the local pub and stands next door to the fish and chip shop, Moby Dick’s.
The towns of Newport and Fishguard are nearby and more shops, more places to eat and more beaches to explore.
Parking is free in Pwllgwaelod and is a short, flat walk away so is the next best place to head if parking is full at Cwm Yr Eglwys. Spend the morning in Cwm Yr Eglwys and the afternoon and evening in Pwllgwaelod as the sun moves westward.
Located down a rural country road off the main A487, access to the village is down a steep hill bringing you directly opposite the car park. From here, you can follow the flat path down a narrow slipway onto the beach.
Cwm Yr Eglwys Beach does have high formidable sea walls, likely established to defend the village against almighty storms like the one which ruined the church. You can walk along the bay to reach a set of concrete steps.
Yes, Cwm Yr Eglwys Beach is dog friendly all year round with absolutely no restrictions.
Previous years have presented this picturesque cove with a range of awards including the Seaside Award and the Green Coast Award. It is also on the list of Marine Conservation Society (MCS) Recommended Beaches.
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