If you look along the north Pembrokeshire coastline between Fishguard and Newport, you will see a prominent headland jutting out into the sea; this is known as Dinas Island. On the western side lies Pwllgwaelod Beach with the hamlet of Pwllgwaelod behind it and lying almost parallel on the eastern side, you will find Cwm Yr Eglwys Beach, again backed by the small village of Cwm Yr Eglwys.
Just a short drive from the centre of Dinas village, Pwllgwaelod Beach is a small cove made of a mixture of sand and shingle. Sheltered by steep high cliffs on either side, the edges of this bay are littered with low rocks teeming with wildlife.
Within walking distance of the beach, you will find the remnants of an old lime kiln indicating that this bay was once used as a port for incoming limestone, which was then heated there and used for house building. There are stories also which claim that this was once a popular haunt for smugglers and was often used as a place of protection during stormy weather for sailing ships on their way to Fishguard.
Being such a small cove, Pwllgwaelod Beach is unsuitable for many of the popular “forces of nature” sports such as surfing and kitesurfing. Instead, more leisurely pastimes are to be enjoyed here. Bathers will enjoy a dip in these Welsh waters, the sheltered shoreline makes for pleasant swimming and you’ll find creatives perches on rocks along the sand, soaking in the setting and people watching, waiting for inspiration. Many an artist stops here to paint the picturesque scene sitting before them and you may spy a young writer jotting frantically in their notepad piecing together a new story.
As with many of the smaller coves along the Pembrokeshire Coast, the horizon is often sprinkled with small boats enjoying a day by the seaside. Quaint rowing boats, small powerboats, kayaks and canoes make the most of this secluded bay all year long.
The environment at Pwllgwaelod Beach and the surrounding coastline of Dinas Head offers a fascinating look at wildlife in its natural habitats. The network of low rocks along this shingle shore create a nirvana for miniature sea creatures such as crabs, barnacles, starfish, sea anemones, molluscs and more. Take a close look at the different seaweeds you’ll discover and find out what hides under sea rocks.
Anglers here will find a combination of clean and rough ground when fishing, and may catch pollack, dabs and pouting. Alongside other Pembrokeshire fishing spots, frequent catches are also bass, dabs, flounders and whiting. Seafood is a long-standing favourite within the county, which is no surprise given that Pembrokeshire is surrounded by ocean on three sides and is the UK’s only coastal National Park. Hence, at Pwllgwaelod, and many other small coves across our coastline, you will see regular local fishermen heading out in the morning for the fresh fish which will make it to your plate in the nearby pub/ or restaurant that very same night.
Along Dinas Head and this northern stretch of the West Wales coast, wildlife lovers will rejoice at the wonders they can see. In the waters, you will often find resident porpoise playfully splashing, you’ll see Atlantic grey seals gracing our shores – particularly during seal pupping season in September. If you’re lucky, you might even glimpse a sighting of one or two members of the local dolphin pod.
The skies are also no stranger to nature, with birdlife to be found daily. Watch peregrine falcons, a regular bird of prey found in the area, as they swoop underneath the clouds and spy the distinct wings of fulmars, a bird similar to a gull which inhabits the high cliffs here. You can also see the black choughs here with their recognisable red bill and legs.
Hike the steep hills to the top of the cliffs to join the Pembrokeshire Coast Path and enjoy incredible views out over Fishguard Bay, or head east towards Newport and the towering summit at Carn Ingli. Take the wheelchair-friendly walk over to Cwm Yr Eglwys Beach, another intimate cove popular with boaters, bathers and families.
Pwllgwaelod Beach is backed by a small hamlet of houses with only one pub, The Old Sailor’s. Once home to a guiding light for incoming ships as a sign of shelter, The Old Sailor’s is now a favourite coastal pub in the Pembrokeshire offering delicious fresh seafood and homecooked meals. Many come here to spend the evening on the outside picnic benches, soaking in the sunset views and warm Welsh days.
Parking is available here, for boats and cars. There is a limited space tucked behind the beach but the main car park stands further back opposite the pub. Inside the main car park, you will also find a public toilet block.
For further amenities, you’ll have to take the drive out of the village back into the main village centre of Dinas. Here you will find Dinas Cross Service Station and Kiel House, a well-stocked convenience store. There is another pub here, The Ship Aground, along with Moby Dick’s Fish and Chip Shop. Continue driving to Newport or Fishguard for a wider range of shops and eateries.
During the summer months, you can hop aboard the Poppit Rocket coastal shuttle bus at Pwllgwaelod. This also stops at Dinas, Newport, Fishguard, Poppit Sands, St Dogmaels and Cardigan.
From the main road at Dinas, you’ll follow a sometimes narrow country road down into the bay at Pwllgwaelod. From the car park, the ground is level and you can walk through the boat park to access the main slipway leading onto the beach. There are a couple more access points further along the beach, taking you from the road onto a concrete walkway where you then step over rocks onto the beach.
For a slightly elevated view over the beach, you can step onto one of the grassy banks backing the shoreline.
Yes, Pwllgwaelod Beach is dog friendly all year round with no summer restrictions.
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